Saturday, 9 May 2009

Happy Hungarian Holiday: The End

(* Note: if you've not read any of the Happy Hungarian Holiday tale, it begins at "The Beginning", 3 posts down.)

A Budapest Easter


At 4 am on Easter morning a battle took place between alarm clocks and the subconscious mind. Against the odds, the alarm clocks prevailed, and off they went to a dawn service in Hungarian. Lovely, contemplative and inspiring; followed by delicious ham, boiled eggs, sweet breads and jam.

After church, the dog demanded a walk, and was very wise in his insistence, for the early morning mood in the park was quite divine: blossoms everywhere, fresh morning air, gorgeous views…

*






Having achieved all this before 8:30 am, they concluded it was time for a nap. Kendrah set her alarm to draw her back from a faraway place in time to meet her brother-in-law’s family (normally of Saskatchewan, but currently visiting a son in Austria).

Pleased to have serendipitously rendezvoused in this delightful spot on the globe, Kendrah and her almost relatives proceeded to have a most excellent time together enjoying ‘the best of Budapest’. Without her Hungarian hostess, who was otherwise occupied, Kendrah took on the role of tour guide for the afternoon, armed with a city map and a few tidbits of information.



After a long afternoon of much walking in the sunshine, photo-taking, site-seeing, and some more ice-cream (of course), they were re-joined by Kendrah’s other friend and her Hungarian hostess, who, overflowing with interesting historical facts garnished with personal family stories took the weary walkers to a fantastic traditional Hungarian restaurant. Here they had an impressive Easter dinner accompanied with fine red wine. Their plates were heaped with so much beef stew and veal cutlet and potatoes and dumplings and gnocchi - that one plate might easily have fed three people. And the price was even more shocking – under €5 per plate!

*

Night had fallen as they filled their bellies to full (and then some), and it was decided that an expedition ought to be made to see the city and its impressively-lit buildings by night. And so they were led, on foot, throughout the city (forgetting, perhaps, that most of the party had walked the entirety of that afternoon, and some hiked through the park and up the mountain that morning). Legs were weary, but spirits were high, as they walked and paused to admire the parliament, the castle, impressive bridges, a very stylish Art Deco hotel, the basilica, and finally, at the end of a walk that no one realized was quite so far, a beautiful square and memorial. All voted to take a tram home, and the happy travellers had a special Hungarian chocolate bar, filled with sweet cottage cheese, before bidding one another good night and heading to their respective places of sleep.

*

The next morning, on her way out the door to meet up with her relatives before proceeding to the airport, Kendrah had a striking encounter with Hungarian hospitality. Countering Kendrah's belief that she was prepared to depart, Kendrah's hostess suddenly interjects with: “oh, but I want to send some Easter food from my grandmother’s house with you for your family”.

“Oh, but it’s really not necessary,” Kendrah protested, “they have breakfast included at the hotel and they will have eaten. You needn’t worry.”

“No, no,” said the hostess, “they must have some.”

“But they’re not even coming to your house, you really needn’t send food for them” Kendrah argued.

“You’re not getting out of this,” said her hostess resolutely.

“Oh…I see, it’s obligatory Hungarian hospitality,” Kendrah thought, and promptly gave up on her protests. They proceeded to go to grandma’s house where they ransacked the poor lady’s fridge, and packed a rather enormous meal of smoked ham, boiled eggs, bread, radishes, peppers, and special pastry with nuts.

“You do realize I have to carry all this on the tram along with my luggage?” said Kendrah. Her hostess was not concerned.

And so, off Kendrah went, laden with pretty baskets lined with Easter napkins and lettuce and filled with the feast. Sure enough, the family had already eaten their fill, but they agreed to go see some sites that were yet on their list and then go to the park with their packed feast for a final lunch. So off to the grand Basilica they went, where they saw the hand of a man 1000-years dead. The things people cherish… It was small, shrivelled and grey. It was the hand of the first king of Hungary. It was weird.

After this, they made their way to the park, found an inviting spot on the grass with an excellent view of Budapest and shared a delicious Easter picnic, about which they were all now most grateful to Kendrah’s hostess and her stubborn insistence.

*

It was a beautiful finale to a beautiful weekend.

And they were all very happy to have holidayed in Hungary.

The End.


*(cheers to darryl zubot for *'d photos)

Happy Hungarian Holiday: The Middle


What Treasures Lie North of Budapest


The heroines of our story awoke to a Saturday morning they had already met earlier that day. The sun was shining and the weather was delightfully warm. They found themselves in a land of summertime in a small city north of Budapest. They were treated to a lovely Hungarian breakfast: breads, cold meats and cheeses; tomatoes, radishes and long yellow bell peppers; fruit and homemade jam.

A lovely morning was had, climbing 360 steps to the top of a beautiful Basilica where they could walk all around the dome seeing the town and countryside in all directions. Just a hop away, across the Danube river was Slovakia. Kendrah eagerly wanted to visit to add this country to her collection, but alas, time did not permit it. So she settled for a photo of herself with Slovakia in the background. After their walking and site-seeing, they joined the prevailing Hungarian warm-day culture and treated themselves to ice cream. Mmmmm…. So good, so cheap, so satisfying.

Outside the Basilica

360 steps later.
Slovakia...so close, but just a little too far to be legitimately
countable according to official country-counting regulations.


Excellent travel companions - lovely Latvian
on the left, hospitable Hungarian on the right




En-route to Budapest they visited another enchanting city, and spent the afternoon walking pretty cobbled-lanes, eating fried potato flatbread with cream, browsing shops, enjoying views, and promenading along the Danube.





At dusk, they caught a train to Budapest, and arrived in the city from underground to a stunning view of the impressive parliament building, beautifully lit up and reflecting on the shimmering river at night.

(exceptionally pretty photo by Darryl Zubot, with exceptionally superior camera)

And then it was time to rest their weary heads in the home of a friend. For it was to be an early morning the next day. Earlier in the day than they last went to sleep!

To be continued…